Lithium Batteries Buyer's Guide—Current (Amps ...

If you are wondering if I suddenly became an illustrator or used AI to generate this, go with your instincts. It&#;s a long way from what a real human illustrator would be capable of, and I had to fix a bunch of mistakes, made by AI, in PhotoShop, using AI, and some remain, but it&#;s still a fun illustration.

Wow, figuring out how to put a lithium battery-based system together that will be functional for an offshore boat (not a camper van) and not break the bank, is even more complicated than I thought when I started this.

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The good news is that we are getting a handle on it. So far we have covered:

We need real understanding, not:

1. Cruiser looks at YouTube.
2. Cruiser installs unseamanlike system.
3. Cruiser maybe gets by, but knows it could have been better.

With all that out of the way, let&#;s dig into how much peak current (amps) we need our system to be able to supply. Oh, no one ever mentions that on YouTube?&#;Exactly&#;

The Amps We Need

First, let&#;s cover the minimum current capability that any BMS should have for us to consider it.

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We all know that lithium batteries can supply huge amounts of current, and accept prodigious charging rates&#;think a Tesla with amazing acceleration that can be recharged in less than an hour&#;but that does not mean that the BMSs and batteries we will be considering can do that.

In fact, many (perhaps most) boat lithium battery-based systems can actually supply less peak current (amps) than a good lead-acid battery.

What gives?

It&#;s all about the Battery Management System we choose and how robust the internal wiring of the battery is. Let&#;s deal with the BMS first.

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