Since time immemorial, jewelers have used just about every type of metal they can acquire for their creations. When new alloys and metals emerge, such as titanium and stainless steel, they eagerly embrace them. Jewelers adapt them for jewelry making and create beautiful pieces from them. Fashion trends utilizing trendy metals come and go. However, three jewelry metals have withstood the test of time and continue to have a strong presence in modern jewelry: gold, silver, and platinum.
Chemically, noble metals resist oxidation and corrosion in moist air. They also possess varying degrees of resistance to acids. This group includes the following elements: ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, osmium, iridium, gold, silver, and platinum.
In addition to noble metal properties, gold, silver, and platinum posses the following characteristics:
For all these reasons, the trio of gold, silver, and platinum continue to enjoy considerable popularity as jewelry metals.
Although long coveted for its beauty, gold possesses physical properties that have also captivated humanity. Since gold never tarnishes and has great workability, many jewelry designers and makers prefer it to other metals. In fact, a single ounce of gold can be stretched into a thread more than 50 miles long. You can also roll that quantity into a sheet that covers 100 square feet in area. If properly cared for, gold can last indefinitely, which makes it a prized metal to designers as well as consumers. It doesn't oxidize or corrode, and only a handful of rare acids or hot chlorine bleach can damage it.
Recent studies suggest that gold originated in the far reaches of the universe, billions of years ago. It arrived as dust on Earth in its infancy. Gold has witnessed many transformations, and the material made into jewelry may continue to do so. Gold can be reused by melting down old gold objects and reforming the gold into new pieces. For example, old coins and broken pieces of jewelry can be melted down and reused to make new gold jewelry.
Despite gold's desirable properties, it does have one significant drawback: softness. This means it wears out easily. (This quality differs from gemological/mineralogical measurements of hardness as resistance to scratching). However, mixing gold with other metals creates gold alloys that are stronger, more durable, and better suited for jewelry use. While jewelers do use pure gold for some jewelry pieces, these dent and show wear so readily that most people don't wear pure gold jewelry on a regular basis.
Metals commonly alloyed with gold for jewelry purposes include: silver, copper, nickel, iron, zinc, tin, manganese, cadmium, and titanium. In addition to enhancing gold's strength, alloying changes some of its other properties, too. For example, some gold alloys stain skin or cause allergic reactions. The gold itself doesn't cause these reactions. Rather, the alloyed metals do.
When discussing gold and its alloys, the term karat indicates the purity of the gold. (Don't confuse karat with carat, which is a unit of measurement used to describe gemstone weight). Pure gold, which contains no other metals, is termed 24-karat gold. So, a 50/50 alloy, half pure gold and half other metal or metals, is 12-karat gold. Alloys used in jewelry making range from 9-karat gold, approximately 37% pure gold, to 24-karat gold. They are required to be stamped and hallmarked according to purity.
A newer alloy becoming popular on the jewelry scene consists of 99% gold and 1% titanium. This allows the alloy to retain nearly all its gold color while providing improved durability.
KaratParts GoldPercent GoldOther Marks2424/24100%10001818/2475%7401414/2458.33%5851212/2450%5001010/2441.66%416The color of gold changes when alloyed. For example, mixing copper with gold creates a darker yellow color. Adding nickel plus zinc, copper, platinum, or manganese produces white gold. Typically, white gold doesn't contain silver, which softens gold and gives it a green tint. Other gold alloy colors include green, red, and blue.
Gold ColorAlloysWhite10% to 20% nickel, plus copper, tin, and sometimes platinum or manganeseGreenSilver, sometimes cadmium and zincRed or PinkCopperYellowSilver and copperBlueIronIn the United States, strict laws govern gold purity labeling. To be labeled as a specific karat, a solid item must be within three parts per thousand of the karat marking. Items containing solder must be within seven parts per thousand. Pieces that fail to meet these criteria must receive a lower karat designation.
When labeling gold jewelry or other gold items for sale, vendors can't legally call an item "solid gold" unless it truly is 24-karat. Any other references to an item as gold must designate its karat.
The term "new gold" doesn't mean the gold was recently mined. Rather, it means the gold has been carefully refined to current standards. On the other hand, "old gold" comes from melting down old jewelry, coins, and other gold items. Depending on how much solder the original pieces contained, old gold may have a slightly lower karat weight than the original gold.
Impurities in old gold pieces cause a variety of headaches during casting, including bubbles. Therefore, jewelers often send old gold to a refiner instead of melting and recasting a new item at their workshops.
Jewelers use gold solder to join gold pieces together. Since solder must have a lower melting point than the pieces it joins, it's mixed with metals with lower melting points than gold. Gold solder is sold based on color, not gold content. For an attractive look for the finished item, jewelers match the solder color to the joined pieces. This poses no problems for the jewelry's current owner. However, melting down this piece with its solder in the future will reduce the gold's karat.
With solid gold selling at a hefty price (as of April 2020, about $1,617 per ounce), many jewelry makers look for alternative ways to give their customers the look and feel of gold at a lower cost. One common practice, for example, involves coating pieces made from less expensive metals with thin coats of gold. Items made this way are known as gold overlay pieces.
There are two distinct overlaying methods: gold filled and rolled gold plate.
Gold filled pieces have a minimum of 5% gold applied to the base metal. The relative quantity and karat of the overlaid gold determine their classification. For example, a stamp of "1/20 14K GF" means the piece has a 14-karat gold layer comprising 1/20th of the piece's weight.
While similar to gold filled, rolled gold plate pieces can have gold as thin as 1/40th of the weight. Their stamps also indicate fineness and content, for example, "1/40 14K RGP." Of the two types of gold overlays, gold platings are thinner and less expensive. With a thickness of a few thousandths of an inch, at best, gold plating wears off easily.
Gold overlay pieces have gold layered on top of another metal, so their care differs from that of solid gold. Since the gold layering wears off over time, you can't use a polishing wheel on these pieces. This could remove the overlay and potentially ruin the item.
To learn more about gold content and gold jewelry prices, read our article on calculating the gold markup for jewelry.
At various times throughout history, people have valued silver more highly than gold. Long used as an exchange medium as well as for jewelry, silver has also found many new uses. Today, these include photography, batteries, auto glass defogger, and magnetic strips, just to name a few.
Several factors make silver one of the most popular jewelry metals. Its luster ranks as its most outstanding visual feature. Silver is also more abundant and much less expensive than gold or platinum. However, because silver conducts heat so well, it's more difficult to work than gold. For this reason, novice jewelry makers often learn how to solder on silver. Once they gain control of their soldering technique on this highly conductive metal, controlling the heat on gold becomes easier.
This noble metal does have some drawbacks, though. Most notably, silver tarnishes. The term "tarnish" denotes a layer of corrosion that forms over some metals, including silver, when they undergo chemical reactions. The chemical reaction that causes silver to tarnish requires a compound called hydrogen sulfide. Since this compound can occur in our air, silver items left out exposed will tend to tarnish over time.
Storing silver items in protective pouches or containers will reduce the amount of tarnish. This means you'll spend less time removing tarnish from your silver jewelry. Yes, silver does requires more care than some other precious jewelry metals. However, you have many polishing options, from commercially available silver polish to do-it-yourself home methods. Don't let tarnish sour you on silver jewelry.
Like gold, pure silver is soft and easily damaged. Therefore, jewelry makers often alloy silver with harder metals to improve its durability. With silver alloys, they can make beautiful, strong pieces suitable for daily wear.
The most common silver alloy is sterling silver. Sterling silver consists of 92.5% silver. One or more metals comprise the other 7.5%. Often, copper makes up a substantial portion of that 7.5%, because it increases the alloy's hardness.
The term "Mexican silver" refers to silver used as currency in Mexico, typically comprised of 95% silver and 5% copper. This alloy sees more use as currency than in jewelry. Even silver jewelry made in Mexico is more commonly crafted from sterling silver.
In the United States, coin silver contains 90% silver and 10% copper. You don't usually see coin silver used in jewelry.
Britannia silver contains a minimum of 95.84% silver, making it a more valuable alloy than sterling. This alloy does, rarely, see some jewelry use.
You'll find a variety of silver alloys used worldwide. For example, a South American alloy, made of 80% silver, doesn't tarnish.
Jewelry makers stamp silver pieces with a code for the alloy used. For example, 925 indicates sterling silver; 958 indicates Britannia silver, etc. When shopping for silver jewelry, inspect the piece carefully for this code.
To learn more about silver markings, definitions, and terminology, read our article on jewelry silver content.
Although jewelers use sterling silver more than any other alloy for silver jewelry, other silver jewelry metals deserve a mention.
This naturally occurring silver and gold alloy enjoyed great popularity in Ancient Egypt. Due to its natural origins, the ratio of silver to gold varies with each piece.
Gold crystalizes in the isometric system and can appear as cubes, like this rare electrum crystal. A natural alloy, this specimen consists of 70% gold, 27% silver and 3% copper. 0.7 x 0.6 x 0.6 cm, Berezovsky Mine, Middle Ural Mountains, Ekaterinburg Oblast, near Ekateringburg, Russia. © Rob Lavinsky, www.iRocks.com. Used with permission.You'll typically see this black mixture of silver, copper, and lead used like an enamel. It can also be used as an inlay on etched or engraved metal. Like electrum, the Ancient Egyptians frequently used this material. Over time, niello techniques spread throughout Europe and Asia.
While all the silver alloys previously discussed contain at least some silver, some metal names can mislead you.
The alloys known as nickel silver or German silver, for example, contain nickel, zinc, and other metals. Although they look like silver, hence the name, they don't actually contain any silver.
"Quicksilver" is an ancient term for the metal mercury. While mercury may resemble liquid silver or "living silver" (hence the name), it doesn't contain silver. Quicksilver/mercury has no use as a jewelry metal due to its toxicity and its liquid state at normal temperatures.
Rarer and more expensive than gold, platinum has unsurpassed holding power and durability. It doesn't tarnish. These qualities make it one of the most highly coveted, premium jewelry metals, especially for engagement and wedding rings.
Platinum also has a variety of industrial applications, such as in catalytic converters. In fact, half of the platinum mined in the U.S. and a quarter worldwide is used for this purpose. The U.S. Bureau of Standards also uses platinum for weights. Since this metal never oxidizes, these weights remain the same forever.
"More Shiney," diamond ring with Diana classic platinum semi-mount. Photo by ilovebutter. Licensed under CC By 2.0.Although platinum use in various objects goes back as far as 700 BCE, its use in jewelry is relatively modern. Since it has an extremely high melting point and resists corrosion so effectively, refining the metal proved difficult for centuries. The oldest recorded use of platinum is as an inlay in Ancient Egypt. (However, the Egyptians thought this metal was a variety of electrum). Native Americans used platinum in small decorative objects for centuries. Platinum remained unknown to Europeans until the Spanish encountered it in the New World. The Spanish called it platina, meaning "little silver." In accordance with the theories of the time about metal origins, they believed this was "unripe gold" and, therefore, unusable.
In the 18th century, researchers identified platinum as a new metal. Henrik Scheffer, a Swedish chemist, discovered how to melt platinum with arsenic. Once refining became possible, artisans used platinum to decorate porcelain while scientists made laboratory equipment from it. However, refining platinum with arsenic proved extremely dangerous. Thus, platinum didn't gain much popularity until the invention of the oxyhydrogen torch in the mid-1800s.
New discoveries of platinum ore in the 19th century brought the metal to the attention of jewelry makers. It became a symbol of wealth and status for early 20th-century celebrities. Stars like Greta Garbo frequently appeared on film with platinum jewelry and accessories. The 530-carat "Star of Africa" diamond has a platinum setting in the British royal scepter.
The term "platinum" actually refers to a group of metals. In addition to platinum, this group includes iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium, and ruthenium. While platinum is the most abundant, all these metals, except osmium, have jewelry applications.
Rhodium frequently sees use as a non-tarnishing plating for white gold, silver, and other platinum group jewelry metals. Palladium and iridium are commonly alloyed with other metals or used alone to make jewelry pieces.
The most common platinum alloys include 90% platinum and 10% iridium, or 95% platinum and 5% ruthenium. Ruthenium makes for a harder and stronger alloy.
Copper is a soft metal with high conductivity. Copper is a transition metal of alloy and tin that is bright and shiny and comes in shades of reddish brown. It is used widely because of its thermal and electrical charge. Copper’s meaning is to conduct energy, clear out negativity, and to help balance the chakras.
With its singing brightness and its brassy coloring, Copper is one of the prettiest metals in the pack. While often synonymous with all things industry – from electrical wires to pennies in your pocket, Copper actually comes with a wide spectrum of healing properties. One of the most fascinating things about Copper is the fact that it is the third most common trace mineral within our bodies – linking us deeply with the soft shimmering ore.
Copper has a long history with the world at large. Tracing the lineage back, Copper first made its appearance in the known world in 77 AD under the Greek name Cyprium, a reference to the land in which the malleable metal was mostly mined. The name was changed later to Cuprum and then finally to the name we know – Copper. From folklore to finance, Copper has accompanied us on quite the journey. In ancient times it was linked to the Goddess of Love (Aphrodite) and Venus. It was polished until it shone and then used as mirrors. In Rome, heady lumps of Copper were used as currency and the Egyptians would use Copper to purify water and keep wounds clean.
Even with its ancient links to tending the wounded and being smelted in India to create surgical tools, it was only in the 1970’s that the United States started to recognize the healing elements of Copper. An amazing amplifier and conductor of energy, this warming mineral is ripe for helping you release excess charge and conduct positive vibrations. Copper can be found in many gemstones from Malachite to Turquoise and Chrysocolla.
To find out more about healing crystals and their powers, check out our essential guide to healing gemstones right here.
Potent in healing powers and a glorious conductor of energy, wearing Copper comes with a wide array of bountiful benefits for the body, mind, and soul. With a wide array of vibrational frequencies, Copper is believed to provide harmonic connections between the physical and spiritual realms. It is able to magnify energy transfers meaning that the wearer can soak up every ounce of healing when the metal is paired with healing minerals or crystals. Not only does Copper come with a ton of physical healing powers but it also helps to balance out the chakras and keep circulation in flow. Take a look at the array of healing benefits that come from Copper….
Say yes to harmonious health as you welcome Copper into your world. Ever in-tune with the flow, one of Coppers leading health benefits is its ability to improve circulation and get oxygen pumping. When blood circulation is in flow, you are sure to feel a brighter burst of energy and a sharpened mind. For all those struggling with anemia and a lack of red blood cells, Copper can up your count keeping you fighting fit and ever ready to fend off internal diseases that wreak havoc on immunity. Copper is also famed for reducing stiff joints, aches, and pains commonly associated with arthritis and rheumatism. Copper can also help with collagen production and can encourage the system to overcome issues that lead to skin diseases and rashes.
Bringing more than just the healing touch in the physical sense, Copper is rife with spiritual healing and metaphysical properties. As mentioned, Copper builds a bridge between the physical and the spiritual and being an incredible conductor also means that it is well-versed in lending light and channeling higher beings and astral bodies to those who are poised and ready to receive. Copper can help to clear out negative energy and can rebalance the chakras so you are well-placed to receive all the goodness the spirit world has to offer. When we are open to receiving all that the universe has to give we make space for deep healing, cosmic greatness, and an abundance of opportunity to flow our way.
A beautiful balancer of emotions, Copper is a must play card when it comes to mental wellbeing and emotional healing. This sweet bright metal invites you to lay down all your mental burdens and to raise your levels of self-esteem through the power of high vibrations. For those who have been struggling with a sense of lethargy, feeling lost, or falling into passivity - Copper can help to awaken your senses once more and bring you to a place of perfectly curated mental clarity. On the opposite side, if you have been restless, excitable, and generally feeling OTT about things, Copper can calm you down. It’s a healing metal that knows exactly what you need and will lead you to a place of finding that space and softness. Copper is here for your success; it wants you to shine in a thousand splendid ways and it will do the vibrational energy work to clear out negativity and conduct positive and powerful thought patterns so you can get to where you are heading.
Check out our Tibetan Twisted Healing Ring
There are so many ways you can bring Copper into your life that doesn’t involve holding a penny in your hand 24/7. From Copper jewelry to Copper stones, simply having the humming high vibrations of this metal close by is bound to lift your energy, balance you out, and welcome rich and whole harmonious healing to the party. Copper can be used on and around the body to truly make the most of those healing tendencies. For opening and balancing the lower chakras you can place it on the lower stomach during moments of gentle meditation. For those seeking healing gemstones with a high copper count, you can look to the stones of Azurite, Malachite, Chrysocolla, and Turquoise – all of which boast high copper counts.
Copper makes for an amazing healing element for everyone but has a special affinity with those born under the Zodiac signs of Taurus and Sagittarius. Taureans are stoic, earth bound, and can be a little stubborn – but they are also ruled by Venus which puts them in touch with beauty and artistry. Copper too is linked deeply with Venus making it an incredible match for Taurus.
Sagittarians are spontaneous and fun, they love freedom and intellectual conversations. They love to express themselves in a thousand different ways and have a strong independent streak. Copper helps them to grounded and tuned in to their root chakras so those flighty Saggi’s don’t fly away.
If you want to know which gemstone is a perfect match for your astrological sign, check out our guide to zodiac birthstones right here.
Copper jewelry is one of the best ways to soak up the healing properties of Copper. Having the metal pressed close to the skin allows your own vibrations to sync up with the Copper. Without any barriers in place, the red gold metal is able to ease aches and pains, improve cardiovascular health, clear out the chakras, and balance your inner bliss and energies. Whether you choose a Copper Bracelet, Copper Pendant, or Copper Ring, this metal is sure to instantly soothe.
For those seeking Copper amulets and talismans they can keep close by, the Copper Sphere is also a heavenly healer you can carry with you.
Just like all healing crystals, Copper also needs to be discharged and recharged from time to time to keep it healthy, harmonious, and humming at high vibrational frequencies. When Copper is cleansed and cared for it is better equipped to heal you from tip to toe and is able to channel energies without being blocked. This is especially true when you have used Copper for clearing negative energies as you don’t want that energy to get stuck. Cleansing Copper is super easy, simply make a solution of warm water and a couple drops of lemon juice and salt and dip your copper into the solution. Leave for a moment or two and then rinse thoroughly. If your bright Copper has become tarnished you can also use a soft bristled toothbrush to gently rub the markings away.
What are your thoughts on Copper? Is it a metal that sings to you or are you more drawn to other shades? Share your opinions and experiences with us in the comments.